La Festa Major de Gracià

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La Festa Major de Gracià

The city of Barcelona used to be confined until the 19th century to the outer walls of what we call the Old Town or the “Barrio Gótico”. Several towns and villages were situated at a short distance from the big town but were -proudly- independent. Today in the 21st century, all these places have been gobbled up by Barcelona and relegated to the status of neighbourhood. One such area in particular still resists the notion that it is no longer independent and this area is called Gracià.

Most visitors will know of it because of the glamorous shopping street that connects the Plaza Catalunya with this neighbourhood (“barrio“): The Paseo de Gracià. This avenue is home to all luxury brands of the world as well as two emblematic buildings by Gaudí: the Casa Battló and the Casa Milà (better known as La Pedrera). Once you are at the end of this road, you enter the wonderful world of Gracià.

Gracià is a community in its own right with a feisty reputation for anarchism going back for over a century. It is also a foothold for Catalan speakers and nationalist sentiments in the city displaying an obvious disdain for these cosmopolitan Barcelonese inhabitants outside of their barrio. In other words, it has plenty of character.

Unlike the rest of Barcelona, Gracià has no wide avenues or streets, and it feels like you’ve stepped into another world as soon as you enter it. Large squares are lined with bars and restaurants and there are always groups of people having an animated discussion or simply enjoying life passing by. If there’s such a thing as a main street, it is the Calle Verdi where the local cinema stands out as a point of reference.

The highlight of the year is the third week of August when Gracià celebrates its “Festa Major” (Fiesta Mayor in Spanish). This is a true neighbourhood affair where different sections compete with each other to decorate their street or square to a certain theme. What is amazing is that almost exclusively recycling material is used to wonderful effect. Because of the ample use of illumination, you should really stroll around the streets after sunset to appreciate all the work that has gone into the decorations.

The neighbours typically have dinner together (in the street) on a number of occasions as the visitors pass by wondering who is watching who. Live music complements the festival and you can find everything from cover bands to swing music. The Festa Major de Gracià is truly one of the highlights of this city that absorbed the neighbourhood so ruthlessly.

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